These have long been the type of islands that tourists delighted in "discovering." Seemingly untouched by modern times, they seemed like the "old" Caribbean - small, intimate hotels, pristine beaches, uncluttered roads, with acres of cane fields and rainforests dominating the landscape. You still find hints of the old laid-back islands here, especially in the delightful plantation inns on both islands. These small hotels, built around historical buildings and sugar mills, still have a colonial charm. They are furnished with Caribbean antiques and emphasize the old-fashioned standards of warm, personalized service. So it is possible to sample both the charm of the old world and the activities of the new. Here is a uniquely detailed guide to these islands, excerpted from our much larger Leeward Islands guide. Maps, photos, complete information on all the places to stay, the restaurants, what to see and do.